Years ago, before a mortgage and kids, my husband and I rented a house, sight-unseen, for a year in France’s Loire Valley.
The property, a sprawling farmhouse with multiple outbuildings, was situated just outside Chinon amid sunflowers, vineyards and an assortment of dogs, goats and chickens that often wandered nonchalantly into the road between our house and that of our neighbor, from whom we bought firewood and eggs.
The neighbor also directed us where to buy our wine — the Chinon red for which the region is famous. A local vintner would fill a five-liter pouch called a cubi, short for cubitainer, directly from a vat with a hose.
While it would be a tall order to re-create the authenticity of that experience for travelers in the Loire Valley today, the region still boasts some of France’s most picturesque scenery, an array of outdoor activities like biking and hiking and, of course, wine.
On a recent trip to the region sponsored by Loire Valley Wines, we revisited Chinon and spent time in some lesser-known towns like Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2010, and Montosoreau.
Thanks to the TGV high-speed train, travelers can make the trip from Paris’ Montparnasse Station to Tours in just over an hour.
We spent a lot of time tasting wines, focusing on cabernet franc, the most widely planted grape in the Loire, from which many of the local varieties are derived.
In Chinon, for example, we spent time at the Maison des Vignerons, where in July and August visitors can tour the facility, join a guided tour of the Painctes Caves underneath the royal fortress and taste the wines.
A highlight of the trip was a vineyard wine hike, known as VVR or Vignes, Vins et Randos (Vineyards, Wine and Walks), which takes place every year in early September. Walkers set out on one of several trails through the vineyards that encompass Unesco World Heritage Sites accompanied by a local winegrower; at regular intervals, they come upon stations where wine growers offer tastings of their wines.
Walks range from about four to five miles, while designated family routes top out at around two-and-a-half miles.
Our visit to the 15th century Chateau de la Grille was another highlight, where wine lovers can taste and buy reds, roses and sparkling roses Tuesdays to Saturdays and book guided tours of the vineyard and winery.
The chateau is small by Loire standards, but its facade and grounds are charming and serve as a popular wedding venue.
The food
Since wine and food are a classic combination, we took advantage of both at every opportunity.
We enjoyed an alfresco lunch at Restaurant Chez Odette in Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, part family home and part winery and restaurant, where the wine-pairing menu rotates according to the season.
In the historical section of Chinon, we dined at Restaurant Oceanique, which, as its name implies, populates its menu with mostly fish.
We also managed to squeeze in lunch in Le Puy-Notre-Dame at the Restaurant Les Barque, known for its wines and artisanal breads, and Les Terrasses de Bonnezeaux on the Route d’Angers, where we chatted with vintners and sampled their wines over lunch.
The chateaux
Probably the most famous visitor draw in the region is the chateaux, 42 of which are Unesco sites.
They range from gargantuan and stately — the Chateau de Chambord for example, was originally built as a hunting lodge for Francois I — to quixotic and romantic, like the Chateau de Chenonceau, which spans the river Cher.
The Forteresse Royale de Chinon boasts a hillside perch overlooking the Vienne River. The interior is not only fascinating for history buffs but also offers a family-friendly, augmented-reality experience with historical re-creations.
A highlight is the Monument Game, an escape room-type experience that invites participants to free the souls of the Knights of the Templar — once prisoners in the fortress and who are said to haunt the grounds.
Chinon itself is a medieval town with cobblestone streets where, in 1429, a 17-year-old Joan of Arc walked in her search for the dauphin, the future Charles VII.
The activities
Looking to work off all those croissants? The Loire Valley is bike-friendly. La Loire a Velo, for example, offers tours suitable for first-timers, families and experts.
For a panoramic view of the region, book a hot-air balloon ride. A number of operators offer this; France Montgolfieres, for example, sells group and private rides that take in some of the valley’s most beautiful sites.
We finished our Loire visit with a boat ride at sunset, floating past towns and chateaux on a traditional boat called a toue. Options are plentiful and include a variety of vessels and tour lengths.
