In Israel, where a tour of food markets could fill an entire vacation, Tel Aviv’s Levinsky has always been one of my favorites.
It’s less frenetic than the Carmel Market, the city’s largest and certainly a destination in its own right; rather than a labyrinth of stalls, vendors here have small shops and spaces built along the street, many of which have been occupied by the same families for generations.
But you won’t easily find every culinary storefront on your own. For that you’ll need to call on the Eager Tourist, a self-described “hyperlocal concierge” and creator of tours and experiences here, founded by Ross Belfer.
Belfer himself escorted me to an otherwise nondescript door in a location I am sworn not to disclose (saying it has cool graffiti might limit it to 10,000 Tel Aviv entryways). It opened into a windowless “laboratory” where well-known Levinsky purveyor Benny “Soda” Briga was performing science.
Briga is known for a storefront he opened 10 years ago where he makes a bubbly, organic beverage infused with his own blend of fruit syrups, herbs and edible flowers.
He also uses fruits and herbs to create artisanal liquors that aren’t quite legal but sure are tasty. During the tour, Briga served small tastes of his concoctions, some that ferment for more than three years before they are ready.
He loves explaining the fermentation process and why the herbs he grows and the fruits he picks himself make his drinks — both the alcoholic and nonalcoholic ones — so healthy.
Such underground experiences are among the unexpected insider encounters visitors may have on an Eager Tourist tour. Belfer and I had originally discussed doing a vegan food tour, and there was plenty of that, but when he discovered I was a fan of cookbook author Adeena Sussman, he soon had me at the front door of her apartment, very purposefully located right above the Carmel Market. We were buzzed up to her floor, and the charming chef poured glasses of wine and casually chatted with us while preparing a meal for a group coming that night.
The tour also included a stop at what became my favorite espresso bar in Israel, Caffe Tamati. The cafe is owned by husband and wife Miki and Tamar, who started it after fleeing a former life owning one of Israel’s major espresso franchises. Yearning to get back to what inspires him — coffee — Miki opened the tiny shop right next to Carmel Market. He takes pride in his roasts (I went for the Black Label and never looked back).
Miki, who opened Caffe Tamati with his wife, Tamar, right next to Carmel Market. (Photo by Johanna Jainchill)
The cozy shop is really a hole in the wall with no door. Visitors bring dogs and their kids, who sit on milk crates outside as their parents sip on cortados. Miki loves talking coffee and right away had me sniffing the different varieties he offers and hearing about the places he travels in search of the best roasts.
Finally, no trip to Israel is complete without fresh-squeezed rimon (pomegranate) juice. In my case, no day in Israel is complete without it.
And having a local foodie like Belfer share where his favorite squeeze is served was another highlight for me, especially when it’s an elderly vendor who has been serving fresh-squeezed juice in the same Levinsky storefront for 50 years. I’m not sure I could even say that I remember where it was or what it was called. You’ll just have to sign up for an Eager Tourist tour to find out.
