I still remember my first taste of guava. I was 12, and it came in juice form, from a pink can — that first sip was sweet and bright. It tasted exactly how you’d think the color pink tastes.
These days my palate has grown out of the overly sweet juice concentrates, but my love of guava remains.
For those like me who can’t get enough of the fruit, a visit to the Mexican city of Calvillo in the state of Aguascalientes is a must. The city is often referred to as the guava capital of the world, producing tons of the fruit annually.
Guava is everywhere in Calvillo, as I found on my recent visit to the city, one of Mexico’s delightful Pueblos Magicos, or Magical Towns. It’s in pastries and candies. It’s brewed in beer and used in mole. It’s found in cocktails and atop pizza; even the air smells sweet with guava.
Calvillo is a gorgeous place splashed with colorful buildings, webbed with old stone streets and framed between the Sierra Fria and the Sierra del Laurel mountains. With a population of less than 20,000, it has a small-village vibe, tucked up in the mountains and away from the big-city energy of nearby Aguascalientes, the state’s capital.
But for such a small town, it certainly makes a dent on the global scale, given its production of guava.
Candies and moles seem to be the most popular uses of guava. And there is no better place to try the guava mole of Calvillo than at Alebrije. This charming, hole-in-the-wall restaurant has a massive all-day menu, but its specialty is the mole Alebrije. (Note: Guava in Spanish is guayaba, so look for that word on the menu.)
The mole Alebrije is slathered atop chicken, enchiladas or anything else, really, and besides guava, is made with many different chiles, salt, garlic and onion. It’s beautifully sweet with a light spice and is best washed down with an artisanal beer. Try the Chula Guayaba (of course!).
Afterward, a stroll down Calle 5 de Mayo will stir the senses with the scent of pastries and sweets wafting from the bakeries and candy shops. Grab a cookie at Don Emiliano, an institution since 1958, or stock up on guava candies at Dulceria La Tradicional.
Beyond sweets
But Calvillo has so much to offer all travelers who want to get off the tourist trail, not just those with a taste for guava. The state of Aguascalientes is still a bit of a challenge to reach for U.S. travelers, with limited direct flights from the U.S., though this is changing as the capital city grows.
Calvillo is even more removed, about 45 minutes from the capital, meaning that travelers who want to explore cultural Mexico will find a treasure trove of experiences here. Wreathed in mountains, it is also a prime destination for activities like hiking, rock climbing and rafting.
Travelers who are interested in Magical Towns will love Calvillo. Not only is it one of Aguascalientes’ original Magical Towns, it is also home to the National Museum of Magical Towns, which highlights each of the 177 Pueblos Magicos across Mexico through vibrant and colorful exhibits.
For the best views in town, climb Las Graditas, a series of steps that ascend a city hillside. Flanking either side of the staircase are colorful flowers and brightly painted buildings. At the top are breathtaking views of Calvillo. On the way down, stop at Grada Noventa & Seis for a beautifully prepared cocktail and more stunning views out over the rooftops.
Cantina connoisseur
Speaking of cocktails, Calvillo happens to be home to the Ruta de las Cantinas, which is an evening bar crawl tour.
The libation-fueled journey takes place every Friday and Saturday aboard El Guayequito, a tourist tram. The tram visits several cantinas and taverns throughout the town, with a specialty house drink served at each stop. If a stop includes Chuy Bombas Bar, be sure to order their signature drink, the Bomba. Made with grenadine, red wine, two kinds of brandy, Bacardi white rum, Oso Negro vodka, lime juice, Squirt (a grapefruit-flavored soda) and ice, it’s not a cocktail for the faint of heart.
Where to stay
When it’s time to turn in, Casa Bugambilias is a beautiful boutique hotel with eight individually decorated rooms; Jacinta was my personal favorite for its deep soaking tub, turquoise color palette and private pool.
The rooftop spa pool has spectacular views of the city and mountains. The hotel has two restaurants: Rosa Mexicano Cocina and Pietra Cucina. Pietra Cucina serves elegant Italian cuisine alfresco on terraced patios, while Rosa Mexicano Cocina is known for its traditional Mexican cuisine and creative cocktails. Don’t forget dessert — the guava cheesecake is a must. This is Calvillo, after all.
